Alyeska Beauty

It’s early evening and the sun is setting on Alyeska Glacier. I am enjoying the scene of skiers deftly floating downhill on four inches of fresh powder and younger want-to-be skiers traverse the short runs below our window. It has been a beautiful weekend; soft snow falling all day yesterday creating the feeling of solitude and then an early morning brilliant sunrise daring people to come out and enjoy the day!

We arrived late Friday night after Fred completed a private flying lesson on Elmendorf AFB. We devoured an Italian spicy sausage and cheese specialty pizza from Moose’s Tooth on our way out of town. It has been several years since we ate there – and it is still incredibly popular! It was dark and the roads bumpy and icy once we arrived in Girdwood. It’s amazing how quickly one can wish for paved and snowplowed streets of larger cities when visiting small towns with limited street lights and snowfall limiting visibility.

Saturday was warm and cozy as the snow fell in large flakes. We slept late and then ventured out to the local Bake Shop. The owners, husband and wife, make and serve great breakfasts and lunches. She is German and always has a great hearty soup. Saturday’s special was a tomato based Hungarian sausage and horseradish with a side of fresh sourdough bread. They are known for their fresh cinnamon rolls – so we just had to share one of those as well. After breakfast we ventured next door to the Visual Arts shop. It is co-op of local artists of various talents. We found a couple of small prints (5x7) to add to our Alaskan themed living room. It was back to the room to enjoy a movie or two. For dinner we tried a new place – Jack Sprat – they cook all organic food. It was good food, but we filled our bellies before the plates were clean!

Sunday morning we awoke to brilliant sunshine streaming through the window and a very quiet Mount Alyeska. The trail groomers on snow machines had not yet broken the silence and the mountain just could not hold back the glow and warmth of the day. The silence did not last long and soon the valley rang with shouts of children and children on their last day of Spring Break Fever. We decided on just fresh, hot sourdough bread from the Bake Shop as we took off on our adventure for the day. We headed to Whittier. For the first time ever, we saw the door of the tunnel closed. But our timing could not have been more perfect. Just as we arrived, the light turned green and we proceeded through the tunnel – at $12 a car! Whittier is definitely friendlier in the summer. The cold wind swept icy cold snow down the mountain and against our skin as we opened the doors. We decided it was better to see the town via the Jeep and just make Fred get out and take pictures. We found lots of large snow piles, cars buried in snow drifts, roads that had only been plowed by other vehicles trying to maneuver through and businesses boarded up against the cold winter. There was one mother who braved the cold to give her small children a sled ride. It was time to head back through the tunnel. It was 28 degrees in Whittier, 35 degrees in the tunnel and back to 28 degrees at Portage Glacier.

We took the side trip to Portage Glacier Visitors Center, but were disappointed to find that funding had been cut resulting in no more weekend hours over the winter. It is truly a scenic place in the winter – no tourists you know. J The small Portage Day Lodge was open for business, so we browsed the gift shop, shared adventure stories with other local travelers and then made our way back to the car. Next stop, Alaska Wildlife Center – now known as the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center – to see the rescued and adopted animals. Fred was on a special mission to see if they managers had installed a plaque recognizing Safari Club International for their donation of $40K for a loading and isolating chute for large animals, specifically Wood Bison, and the assistance in acquiring a herd of over 30 Wood Bison from Canada. The plaque was there, very small and on the back side of the game preserve; not near the exhibit. My guess is he will be discussing the location with fellow board members at there next meeting. We enjoyed the sleepy brown bears basking in the warm sun, Sitka deer hiding in the brush, moose shivering off the magpies wanting to find a warm place to rest, and black bears scurrying along the fences chasing unknown dreams. Just as we were leaving the preserve, we spotted three, three-year Kodiak Bear Cubs wrestling in the snow-covered grass. They appeared to be performing just for our benefit, enticing us to stay another 15 minutes.

We headed once more for Girdwood and the warmth of our room. Fred had a good book to read and worked a couple of crossword puzzles. At 4:30, we headed for on the favorite restaurants of the area for dinner – The Double Musky. Seated in the glassed in sun porch, we enjoyed the scene as the sun dipped between the spruce trees casting odd shadows against the snow. Fresh Halibut, beer battered and deep fried, served with a Belgian dark beer – Trois Ponteles (sp?) – started our fare. This was followed with fresh spinach salad. Fred had lamb made in an Italian tomato sauce with just a hint of hot spices; a side of garlic mashed potatoes and seasoned veggies. I had braised beef in Italian wine sauce mixed with onions, celery and cranberries and fresh steamed broccoli. All meals are served with fresh cheese bread with jalapeño spices. Even though we were satiated, the dessert tray proved to inviting. Fred took a piece of fresh pineapple carrot cake topped with sliced almonds to go.

Ho-Hum, a full tummy and a soft bed, I could be tempted to curl up and fall asleep. I decided to share the weekend events. I hope this entices everyone to come and share Alaska in the winter! We head back to Chugiak in the morning. Fred will drop me off at work to finish a letter that my boss requires by late afternoon. He has to be at home working in the afternoon as well. Happy St Pats Day to those that celebrate the GREEN!